“His Majesty” Sangiovese: history, evolution and declinations of a unique vine.

The “Red King” of Italian vines, certainly the most well-known red grape variety in Italy and the most widespread in the central area of ​​the Peninsula. Certain evidence shows us that the Etruscans already cultivated the Sangiovese in the Tuscany area, especially in the hills of Florence.

The blood of Jovis over the centuries it has been subject to multiple clonal variations which have led to the distinction of two different typologies of Sangiovese : the “ Grosso” one (larger grape) which corresponds to some types grown in Tuscany , such as Prugnolo Gentile and Brunello, with thick skin and a consistent anthocyanin content to develop a ruby ​​colour with compact chromatic density and excellent refinement capacity and the Sangiovese “Piccolo” (it goes without saying, smaller grape) , to which the varieties of the Emilia Romagna, Umbria, Marche, Abruzzo, Lazio, Puglia and Campania.

The History of Sangiovese

The Chianti

However, we cannot begin this journey of in-depth study on Sangiovese without mentioning the Chianti: was the first term used to indicate a geographical area, then extended in 1384 to a wine area. Modern history begins with the Baron Bettino Ricasoli . It was he who established the marriage between two red grape varieties, Sangiovese and Canaiolo.

After the Second World War , the precarious economic reality pushed young people to find work in the cities, depopulating the countryside and making the land worthless. In the 50s – 60s then, farms could be bought for little money, encouraging purchases by foreigners such as Americans, Germans, English and Swiss.

The DOC was attributed in 1967 to the Chianti and Chianti Classico areas. The latter, nestled between the cities of Siena and Florence, and Chianti, on the other hand, includes seven sub-zones, each of which has its own terroir and history.

It should also be remembered, in the early 70s , a deep identity crisis of Chianti, perhaps due to incorrect clones or questionable plants, and the consequent awareness of the degradation of quality that made an unavoidable refoundation necessary. In addition, new values ​​were growing in taste and the market success of Brunello certainly contained an inspiring model: a great single-varietal wine that was in some ways similar to Sangiovese Chiantigiano.

Sassicaia and Tignanello

If that were not enough, the unbridled creativity of the brilliant Tuscan wine producers, feeling too “narrow” within the production boundaries imposed by law, decided to go outside the schemes of the official denominations and create, for the first time, two other new labels that took shape, starting a sort of revolution in redefining the contents of future Chianti wines: thus “ Sassicaia ” was born. And Tignanello , the first two “ Super Tuscans .

Tignanello was born in the heart of Chianti Classico with typical Chianti vines excluding white grapes and was the first demonstration of the potential and unexplored caliber of Sangiovese. Sassicaia was born in Bolgheri, a place with an initially unknown winemaking vocation and with the planting of vines that were initially disrespectful towards tradition such as Cabernet Sauvignon.

There were immediately bitter controversies and identity crises, but the justification was immediately accepted in the very high quality of the wine and in the opening towards an era of cultural interaction between various countries. It is also worth mentioning the birth of various selections or Cru with lower Sangiovese content such as “ Solaia ” and “ Sammarco ”, with a consistent contribution in percentage of Sangiovese.

Brunello di Montalcino

Thanks to these wines, Sangiovese had a leap in quality in complexity of aromas and taste structures , a prodigy of persistence and a prelude to long refinements. The consequence was that in 1996 , the DOCG changed allowing Chianti to be made with 100% Sangiovese grapes and the use of barriques was permitted, up until the present day where the production of Chianti is divided into two groups : the first includes Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane and Montalbano, with generally fresher and ready-to-drink wines, soft, fruity and also suitable for ageing, the second group instead, or rather I Colli Fiorentini , with Montespertoli and Rufina, which offers more structured wines that are more suitable for aging and which can be labelled as Riserva.

We finally come to "the one" who more than anyone else perhaps represents one of the greatest uses that has been made in relation to the production of wine containing Sangiovese: the Brunello di Montalcino . Produced on the hills surrounding the ancient city of Montalcino, where wine has been produced since the Middle Ages, it was initially a wine with mediocre characteristics until the mid-19th century, when it intervened the founder of the Biondi Santi family, Clemente Santi , who created a superior wine called “Vino Rosso Scelto” and which began to win important prizes at exhibitions in London and Paris and also in Italy.

A few years later, his nephew Ferruccio Biondi Santi continued to promote clones of the Sangiovese Grosso grape variety and in 1964 Tancredi Biondi Santi began the process for the DOCG recognition. Since then, Brunello di Montalcino has been required to age for a total of four years, two of which in barrels, while the Riserva is refined for five years. Today, the cellar is run by Jacopo Biondi Santi , son of Franco, supported by his son Tancredi, seventh generation of the family. It is also worth mentioning the “younger” brother (a meaning expressed with great respect of course) of Brunello, the Rosso di Montalcino : DOC since 1984 and produced with the same variety as Sangiovese Grosso, it has characteristics of lower alcohol content, flavours of wild berries and red flowers, fresh and acidic and aged for only one year.

Tuscany offers us other noble examples (here it is really the case to say it) of the use of this precious vine such as the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano , obtained with Sangiovese which takes the name of Prugnolo Gentile. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which became “Nobile” in the 17th century (an attribute added to indicate exceptional quality) is made from a blend of 70% Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero with the possibility of other grapes added: today protected by the DOCG, it must age for two years before being put on the market. Also in the same area, the Rosso di Montepulciano which has the same percentage of Sangiovese but is vinified with a lower alcohol content and is a more immediate wine.

The Morellino

In the beautiful area of ​​Scansano, however, we find another Tuscan magic, namely Il Morellino (of Scansano, precisely) which is born on the breezy hills of Grosseto and where the producers take care of the production of austere and fascinating reds: historically their fortune began when the demand for Chianti increased and some Chianti producers bought several lands in the area, thus enriching the value of that territory.

Today in Scansano we have new and prestigious cellars for an important wine, rich in structure and also suitable for refinement. Morellino di Scansano, today Docg, is produced with Sangiovese grapes to which other red grapes can be added. The aging of two years then allows the denomination Riserva.

The Carmignano

We continue our virtual walk in the kingdom of Sangiovese, with another symbol of this land and this vine: the Carmignano. Produced in the municipalities of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano in the province of Prato, it represents a Docg in which the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon is permitted to Sangiovese and the wine must be aged for at least 18 months. For the “Riserva” you have to wait three years and in this typology, it is definitely a wine with great longevity.

Bolgheri

Before concluding our journey through the lines of our column and enjoying, at this point, a well-deserved glass of Sangiovese in the form that we like best (we have listed enough to allow you to make the best choice), we cannot help but "bow" before a territory that has made not only Tuscany, but the whole of Italy, one of the most sought-after destinations for lovers of the world of great wine: Bolgheri. The denomination alone is now synonymous with high quality and regional-national pride and covers the wine production of the Municipality of Castagneto Carducci. The Doc arrives in 1994 and the most renowned brand (but there are many) is certainly Sassicaia , a wine produced with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, but with Sangiovese as an important component in the Bolgheri Red And Bolgheri Rosato . We will not add anything else about Bolgheri because it is a territory that must be visited, breathed and above all "drunk" and words would not be enough to describe the elegance and majesty of the wine products that the great mastery and passion of the Tuscans has been able to give not only to us Italians, but to the entire World.

We have come to the end of this in-depth study of the world of vines, made through a virtual journey that has traveled through time and its evolutions, through its most precious red pearl: “His Majesty” Sangiovese.

Written by Carlo Attisano for mangiaebevi.it